Calculating How Much You Need

Measure the width and height of all areas to be covered. Multiply width by height to determine the total square footage of the surface area. We recommend adding 10-15% for a running bond pattern, and 15-20% for a herringbone pattern.

Estimate the corners required by measuring the total length of the wallcorners to be covered. This will equal the number of linear feet corners you will need.

Thin Veneer Brick is packaged assuming that the product will be installed with a minimum of 3/8” mortar joint. If you decide to Dry Stack, you will need 30% more product.

NOTE: Thin Brick Veneer is not recommended for external applications especially in cold weather climated where freeze-thaw cycles are anticipated, nor for direct contact with heat (i.e. the interior of a fireplace box)



Width of wall: 15 ft   /   Height of wall: 10 ft   /  Length of corners: 20 ft



Multiply Width x Height: 15 x 10 = 150 square ft (+ 10%) = 165 sq. ft.

Multiple 75% x Length of corners: .75 x 20 = 15

Subtract (2) from (1): 165 - 15 = 150 total square ft of flats needed

plus 20 linear ft of corners. 



Flats: 5.5 square ft/box Corners: 4 linear ft/box


LEED Certification

Our Reclaimed Thin Brick Veneer is manufactured in Uxbridge, MA.

Our Reclaimed Thin Brick Veneer is 100% ‘Post Consumer’ material.

Our Reclaimed Thin Brick Veneer does not contain Volatile Organic Compounds.

Surface Preparation

Below please find our best tips for installation of our thin brick products. We do not install ourselves, so we recommend hiring a mason to install your brick, but these tips should help with installation questions. 

  1. Install Metal Lath
    For wall installations, metal lath is installed over the weather barrier. The mortar scratch coat will be applied over the metal lath. Secure the lath to the wall studs using ¾” corrosive-resistant screws. Metal lath will feel rough to the tough to the touch going down, smooth going up. The rough side will grab and hold the mortar scratch coat. At the corners, overlap the vertical joints at least 16” around the corner to avoid cracking. Trim the lath around edges with wire snips.
    Cement backer board can also be used instead of metal lath. 
  2. Lay Out and Clean the Product
    Remove the corners and flats from the box and lay them out in the desired pattern. You may have to saw down the product during installation to ensure the fit. Sponge off the back of the brick to remove dust and to ensure a permanent bond to the wall. Using a wire brush or simply rubbing the brick surfaces together can reduce the amount of surface mortar if desired. 
  3. Mix Mortar or Thin Set
    In a tub or bucket, combine your mortar mix or thin-set and water with a mixing stick. It should be the consistency of peanut butter. For “buttering” the back of the brick, use 1 part Portland cement to 2 parts sand. 

Step-by-Step Installation

  1. Clean the brick
    Open a few boxes of the brick. Using a wet sponge, clean off the back of the bricks. This will remove any debris which could prevent a strong bond on the fiber board.
  2. Arrange the brick
    To ensure that the desired look is achieved, lay out a large section of the thin brick and corners. Remember that broken or short pieces are not waste and can be used to fill out the edges of your layout.
  3. Apply mortar to brick
    For “buttering” the back of the brick, use 1 part Portland cement to 2 parts sand. With a point trowel, apply the mortar to the back of the brick about ½” thick.
  4. Install Corners
    If you are using corners, begin installing them first. Start from the bottom and work your way up. Press the corner pieces onto the wall, rotating slightly to force some of the mortar out. Vary the corner returns so that the joints will not line up. Allow about 3/8” space between the pieces.
  5. Install Flats
    Once the corner pieces are finished, install the flat pieces starting at an outside corner and working your way in. Remove any excess mortar with a sponge or brush. Cut pieces as needed.
  6. Cut Thin Brick as Needed
    To cut pieces to fit, score the brick with a masonry blade about ¼”deep and break the scored piece. Or, a small saw with a diamond blade can be used. Remember that broken or short pieces can be used (before cutting full brick) to fill the places where cutting is needed

Finishing and Care

  1. Apply sealant if desired
    Brick sealant is available at flooring stores to protect the brick from surface staining. Choose a matte finish (so the brick will not appear wet when dry). The sealants should not change the look of the brick, but consult the package directions on any sealant your purchase and we recommend testing the sealant on a few bricks to make sure it gives the desired effect before doing the entire floor.
  2. Fill and smooth out joints
    Using 1 part masonry cement to 2 parts sand and a mortar/grout bag, begin filling joints between the brick. Sponge or brush off excess mortar. As the mortar stiffens, use a joint tool to smooth out the joints to the desired depth. Depth of joint can have a big impact on how your installation appears, so consult with your mason ahead of time to achieve the desired effect. A stiff-bristled paint brush may also be used to push mortar into the crevasses and smooth joints.
  3. Clean the Brick
    Use a wet sponge or stiff brush to clean off any remaining mortar on the brick face.
  4. Caring for your brick
    Brick can be easily cleaned by simply sweeping with a broom or vacuuming with a brush attachment. For deep cleaning, mopping or scrubbing with a solution of vinegar and water will also freshen up the material. Pour 1 cup of white vinegar into a bucket and fill the rest with water. Scrub with stiff bristle brush and a pole attachment. Wipe clean with bath towels
Have questions?
Email us and we will help you get your project to the finish line!